From the moment the large Victorian yellow house on the hill
comes into view, one is enveloped in a feeling of bucolic splendor. Driving
through the allee of upright Poplars, I get a feeling of being transported back
in time to an age where simple elegance is the order of the day.
The Rossmount Inn is enjoying its 12th season
this year. I clearly remember when Chris and Graziella Aerni first opened their
doors to the public as the newest owners of this famous inn. Over the years,
this formidable team of chef and hostess has beguiled their guests with
incredible food and absolute charm.
The menu, refreshed daily according to what’s fresh, clearly
reflects the philosophy of the restaurant. Everything must be fresh from the local
waters, regional organic farms, or their extensive vegetable garden. The
kitchen avails itself on a variety of organic growers in the area to supplement
the sumptuous bounty of the garden.
Favorites of mine include avocado and salmon tartare, beef capaccio,
halibut ceviche, or the Bantry Bay organic mixed green salad to start. The
olive oil poached halibut melts in one’s mouth, as do the short ribs, the
spit-roasted “suckling pig”, and the foie gras served with duck breast. One has
come to expect magic from the kitchen when the chanterelles are on offer; ditto
fresh oysters, salmon, tuna, or heirloom tomatoes and beets.
The desserts are a sublime end to the meal and are never
overbearing. I often am quite happy with three gorgeous hand made chocolate truffles
and coffee, and on occasion I will dive right into the perfect maple-ginger crème
brulee or delightful chocolate truffle cake with raspberry coulis. What I like
most is leaving the table without feeling bloated, yet fully satisfied.
The wait staff is a well-coordinated team of dedicated women
who move effortlessly throughout the main dining room and bar quietly attending
to guests’ every need in a gracious and unhurried way. Although the tables are
covered in crisp white table clothes, there is an understated formality to the
atmosphere.
To be critical, the acoustics are not the best, and if there
are a couple of celebratory tables on the go, having a quiet conversation is
impossible. At some point, some of the chairs need some updated cushioning. On
balance however, there is nothing to keep seasoned foodies and folks visiting
the area for the first time from making reservations weeks in advance to ensure
themselves a table.
Open eight months of the year, guests are treated to an
ever-changing combination of flavors, with the chef continually creating and
inventing amazing new taste sensations.
The Rossmount Inn is unquestionably one of my favorite
restaurants of all time and arguably one of the finest restaurants in Canada.
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